3 programs that stood out most for me that fit many of your criteria and, most importantly for me, seemed to have the happiest residents (or maybe just the most similar to me) were Columbia, Univ Washington, and UPenn. there were the 3 were i felt i just clicked on interview day and ultimately ranked them in order of the city i preferred to live in (and my fiancee's opinion) and ended up with NYC>Seattle>Philly. I was also extremely impressed with the strength of Wash U and Harvard, but would say the residents didn't seem as happy as the previous 3 i mentioned and some at Harvard seemed beat down (i.e. falling asleep during presentations). nonetheless, i ranked harvard and wash u #3&4 ahead of upenn b/c my fiancee really didn't like philly. other programs i really liked and would seem to fit you criteria, but are in less desirable locations are Univ Wisconsin, Univ of MI, and Case Western.
you never really know until you visit the place how much you will like it. i thought columbia and Univ Wash would be in the bottom half of my top 10, but ended up 1,2. on the other hand, i thought i would love Pitt from what I heard, but really wasn't that impressed after the interview. the interview seemed like "smoke and mirrors" to me, but don't get me wrong, it is a very well regarded academic program and i am sure you can't go wrong with Pitt.
just go to as many interviews as possible and don't rule anything out unless of course you have conflicts and have to choose. everyone has different opinions and priorities. the great thing is there are so many great programs out there.